Starting mountaineering: advice from Martial Carbonnaux

Mountaineering is the call of the high mountains, the thrill of sharp ridges, and the raw beauty of summits. But before putting on a harness and strapping on crampons, it’s best to be well prepared. To support those who want to start mountaineering, Lagoped invited one of its ambassadors, Martial Carbonnaux, to share his experience during a mountain-themed afterwork. Here are his essential tips.

With the rise of outdoor activities and the desire to reconnect with nature, mountaineering is experiencing renewed interest. Many enthusiasts today want to get started in this demanding discipline. But mountaineering is far from a simple hike: it combines physical, technical, and mental commitment, and requires following certain rules to progress safely.

Mountaineering requires endurance, resilience, and good physical condition. You don’t need a background as a top athlete, but rigorous preparation is necessary to handle long efforts in harsh conditions (wind, snow, cold).

• The foundation? Good cardio. Running, swimming, cycling, or vigorous hiking are excellent sports to build good physical condition.

• A decent climbing level is recommended (grade above 5a/b), especially to build arm strength and climbing habit.

• Technique is acquired over time: crampon use, roping up, using the ice axe... All of this comes with practice.

Facing the mountain means facing the unknown. The cold, fear of heights, lack of oxygen... you have to learn to manage your emotions and stay clear-headed. That’s why Martial emphasizes steady progress and field experience.

To face these difficulties, it is useful to break down the route to focus on reaching each small step – this then helps to grasp the entire climb.

A high mountain guide is a valuable ally for beginners. They will know how to:

• Adapting the route to the group's level

• Teaching essential technical skills

• Ensure the safety of the rope team 

Homogeneity is essential:

• A good physical and technical level must be shared

• Goals must be clear and shared

• The group atmosphere plays a big role in the success of an ascent

The goal of the first outings is not performance but learning. So aim for glacier or rock routes that are not very technical with an ideal altitude between 4000m and 4200m, an overall rating between Easy (F) and Slightly Difficult (PD), and a climbing grade below IV.

A multi-day Mont Blanc or Mont Rose course is a good option to get started while climbing a beautiful summit!

To find these routes, resources like CamptoCamp or guide company websites are very useful.

Altitude is a physiological stress factor. It is better to anticipate your body's reactions before aiming for a 4000-meter summit.

• Ascend gradually by making sustained efforts at altitude (3000m+)

• Spend a night at around 3000 m and then descend

• Listen to signs of fatigue, headaches, or nausea

• Stay well hydrated during and after exertion at altitude / in the refuge

Good acclimatization is a key factor for success (and safety).

Each route is rated according to several criteria (technical difficulty, commitment, altitude…):

• The rating levels range from F (easy) to ED (extremely difficult)

• Climbing is also rated, usually in Roman numerals in guidebooks for the lower grades I, II, III, IV, V

But above all, snow, ice conditions, and the weather can change everything. It is essential to check the forecasts before departure, on Meteoblue, Swiss Weather, or Chamonix Weather.

Mountaineering is practiced in summer, over a shorter period than before (preferably June/July depending on the routes). Rockfalls and landslides are now more frequent in August due to global warming.

You must be flexible, able to adapt your plans, or even give up if conditions become too unstable.

Preparing a mountain outing is not something you improvise. You need to cross-check information and anticipate as much as possible. 

Among the tools to know:

• The topos to identify routes suitable for your level

• The CamptoCamp website, rich in user feedback and recent conditions

• Hut reservation apps like Hut Reservation

Remember to put yourself on the waiting list if a hut is full: last-minute cancellations are common. And on the day, don’t hesitate to call directly to check availability.

On the ground, locals often have an edge: a local guide knows the booking subtleties and can sometimes find a spot that doesn’t officially exist.

Finally, joining the French Alpine Club (CAF) is a great idea: you will benefit from discounts on nights in huts.

A good mountaineer knows how to travel light. Martial advises making an initial list, then eliminating everything that is unnecessary: do I need a second pair of socks or a second t-shirt? Is the (small) book essential to pass the time in the hut? Should I bring a toothbrush & toothpaste, underwear, etc.?

According to Martial, anticipation is a key quality of a mountaineer:

• Plan your physical preparation in advance

• Gather as much information as possible about conditions on social media or from mountain huts

• Check weather reports and forecasts to schedule climbing slots

• Read guidebooks and identify key passages ("crux")

• Plan schedules with margin

• Anticipate group fatigue, retreat, escape routes

In some situations, giving up is the safest decision. The dangers are real and clarity is vital.

A useful question: "If things go wrong, are we able to manage?"

It requires perspective, experience, and a good reading of the situation.

Mountaineering is a quest for balance between will, technique, commitment, and pleasure. For Martial Carbonnaux, it all starts with the sincere desire to be in the mountains, where everything is experienced intensely. If you feel called by the peaks, then follow his advice, take your time… and listen to the mountain.