Mountaineering diary - Trip with friends to the North face of the Reine: the Directissime des Potes

Vivien, member of the  Lagoped Family , we share the story of the ascent of one of the routes on the North face of the Reine Meije.

Opened by C. Copier and T. Clarasso for the lower quarter, 1997, then B. Gravier, C. Copier, JF Etienne, 2005, in two parts for the upper section.

Just reading the description in the “Cambon topo” gives an idea:

“The hardest and longest route on the North face. Rated ED+, M5, 7c, 80° on ice, it is an extreme undertaking since the crux is a pitch at 7a+ then 7c (or A2) poorly protected at 3800m on the North face” ...

The conditions and weather window being favorable, we prepare ourselves by gathering the few available pieces of information online and contacting friends who have already done it (thanks to Octave, Paulo, and Adrien).

For me, the adventure begins the day after a shift (at SAMU). A bit groggy, we leave the Grenoble area to calmly head to La Grave to enjoy the cable car and a climb towards the Enfetchores. 

We decide to go for the summit ridge of the latter to better scout the North face. This allows us to have a complete view of the face and compare current conditions with the few available photos. Scouting the bergschrund is necessary, as the face is a bit drier than expected. 

So we make a detour at the base to inspect it and find a weak point allowing access to the pedestal.

A somewhat steep wall of icy snow with a few small mixed climbing moves will be our choice. 

Happy to have a plan ¹ we climb up the Meije glacier on its right bank to pass the breach and enjoy the mildness of an evening at the promontory  (thanks to Sandrine the caretaker) where we unexpectedly meet several friends including colleagues from the CRS Alpe.

The next day the alarm rings at 2:00 AM, we get busy around 2:45 AM to reach the base of the North face. It is relatively warm and we decide to save energy on the approach and head back to the said steep wall.

Off we go for the base, after crossing the bergschrund, Ren joins me. The rest of the base resembles a giant night game of Dodgeball and a saying comes to mind: "if you avoid the adjustable wrenches, you will avoid the balls" ² , practical, it must adapt to the stones.

We progress as best we can in a mix of short rope and tight rope moving like little crabs ³ .

The first light appears as we start the climbing pitches on good rock reddened by the rays. 

Next comes the ascent of a couloir with very poor rock where, in addition to choosing holds, you have to choose how to use them so as not to destabilize the house of cards. This section is much drier than described. We gear up at the foot of the first steep wall. Really steep!

It flows quite well on fractured rock, both athletic and aesthetic, and after 4 pitches we change clothes, ice climbing mood. This part, supposed to be snow, is rather icy in sections and I don’t regret the tactic of having winter gear including real steel crampons and a technical ice axe (for the rope team) and 6 ice screws. 

We climb the middle part of the Z with sections of black ice and make a belay at the foot of the final bastion. This section has nothing to do with what we remembered from our visit 10 years earlier. After a break, we put on our shining gear to climb this last section. A surprisingly balanced dihedral brings us to the foot of the famous green crack. 

A few more pitches and we arrive under this very athletic penultimate pitch, Ren launches into it, skillfully climbs to the overhang, a few aid climbing moves later (and replacing the missing bolt, thanks to the friends for the info) brings us to the penultimate belay.

One last pitch allows us to reach the so-called Cheval Rouge and the very final ridge. At 6 p.m., we meet a couple preparing an elegant bivouac at the summit of La Meije. 

We give Béa, the guardian of l’Aigle, a call who sets aside some beers and a meal for us. After a magnificent crossing at dusk, we join l’Aigle, Béa and Margot, the guardian and assistant guardian who are waiting for us with a smile and a good dinner. 

The next day we savor this little piece of paradise before descending back into the valley. Another great adventure with friends!

For this ascent, we decided to do it "in a day," so we do not carry bivouac gear but still bring warm clothes just in case (heavy down jacket, spare socks and gloves) as well as a survival blanket each.

Given the high likelihood of night progress, we carry a small extra headlamp.

We also have a first aid kit and a radio.

We carry a set of Friends up to size 3 (the last one not essential), doubling some medium/small sizes, some wired pitons and 3 pitons (very useful), quickdraws and slings, cordelettes.

We have 6 light ice screws.

Regarding progression gear, we decided to split with a pair of steel crampons with single front points and suitable boots, a technical ice axe, and a light ice axe for one; light gear for the other. This "strategy" for "attacking" ice/mixed pitches proved effective given the conditions encountered.

Finally, we are progressing with 60m double ropes (risk of rope cuts from rocks and possibility of retreat, rappelling at the end of the ridge traverse)