Winter mountaineering with Julien, high mountain guide

The winter of 2024-2025 offered good conditions for winter mountaineering, especially in mixed terrain. Among those who took advantage of this, Julien Désécures, high mountain guide and co-founder of Lagoped, explored new routes, redefining prospects for passionate mixed climbers.

Winter conditions have changed significantly in recent years, directly impacting mountaineering practice. This season, several rain episodes (up to 2500 meters) in mid-winter transformed the structure of snow and ice, making ski touring and ice climbing more challenging. However, this upheaval also opened the door to unexpected opportunities in mixed climbing.

Opening routes in winter relies on expert reading of conditions. Julien takes a reactive approach, analyzing the impact of precipitation and freezing on the walls.

This season, several mountain ranges proved particularly interesting, especially Chamrousse, where frequent humidity and icing recall Scottish conditions.

The routes opened this year offer an approach to winter mountaineering that is both technical and playful. Among them, Roche Rousse stands out for its beautiful pitches and aesthetics.

While some lines required the addition of bolts to secure exposed sections, the philosophy remains one of measured commitment. These new routes offer climbers an alternative to classic climbs, which are sometimes too crowded or affected by changing conditions.

Julien Désécures, a high mountain guide since 2000, is a specialist in mixed terrain and challenging long routes. An engineer by training, he shares his expertise as a (former instructor at the ENSA) and at the EDLM. His record includes notable first ascents on the north faces of the Alps, such as Full Love on the Peigne and Monomania on the Grandes Jorasses.

He has completed prestigious routes with clients and as an amateur, notably on the Grandes Jorasses (Linceul, Cassin, Slovene, Tronchey direct, W ridge), on Mont Blanc (Complete Brouillard), as well as in remote areas in Scotland, Nepal, Bolivia, and Patagonia. He is also the author of guidebooks, including Grandes Jorasses North Face and Mont Blanc Granite.

As co-founder of Lagoped, Julien is committed to a more responsible approach to mountaineering. His experience on the most demanding terrains influenced the design of the brand’s clothing, made to withstand extreme conditions while respecting the environment.

The enthusiasm for these openings reflects a strong trend: facing climate changes, mountaineers turn to mixed climbing, more resilient than fragile ice.

Julien already plans to explore new routes at higher altitudes, despite increased logistical constraints.

For those who want to get started on these demanding terrains, Julien’s advice is simple:

✅ Start with existing routes

✅ Learn to read and anticipate weather conditions

✅ Work on your mixed protection technique

With these new openings, winter establishes itself as a prime season for mountaineering enthusiasts. Your move!