Three days of mountaineering around Trient Hut
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There had been a plan to cross the Alps by bike. And then the weather changed everything. A week of high pressure is forecast, with no rain at night and guaranteed good weather at altitude. The bike can wait. When such a window opens in July, you don't let it pass.
Heading to Chamonix, by train from Paris at 6 a.m. Bus to the village of Le Tour, chairlift, hike to the Albert 1er hut, say hello to Paul the hut keeper, a brownie with whipped cream, and already the urge to leave and sleep outside again. The bivouac is set up above the hut: there are quite a few people that evening, a few tents scattered across the flat areas, everyone preparing for the next day's outing. The full moon rises over the massif. Good night.
Day 1: Aiguille du Tour via the Table ridge, then the Trient hut
Up early, but not too early. No stress. The packs are loaded for three days: food, stove, sleeping bag, all the mountaineering hardware. It's heavy, but once on your back, it remains within reasonable limits.
The Table de Roc ridge on Aiguille du Tour is a classic of the area. This morning, at the summit, there is almost no one left: one last rope team with their guide, eager to descend, and that's it. It's rare to be alone or almost alone on this summit. We take the time to look around.
All that remains is to cross the Trient Plateau to reach Switzerland. The Trient hut is at an altitude of 3,170 metres, renovated in 2023, and has exactly what you need after a day of mountaineering: some röstis. Drying gear, putting things away, reading the route descriptions, scouting the next day's itinerary. The night, under the full moon above the hut, is incredible.
Day 2: Aiguille d'Orny via the classic South Ridge
Up with the sun. Today is climbing, with no glacier crossing: the packs stay at the bivouac site, nice and light. A descent toward Aiguille d'Orny, then back up in the sun via the classic South Ridge. The route is beautiful and airy in places, with an easy-to-find descent from the top that is almost impossible to make out from below: it is best to have identified the right couloir before reaching it.
Quick return to the bivouac, then the Trient hut again for rösti. Hard to resist. A magical night under the stars.
Day 3: Aiguille Purtscheller via the Integral South Ridge
Up a little earlier to catch the sun on the horizon. The Aiguille Purtscheller South Integral Ridge is more committing than expected: the start of the route is much harder to find than we imagined. You have to go around, search, and improvise a little before finding the right passage. Then, the ridge climbs for a long way, with several sustained climbing sections.
The descent on the glacier takes place in the soft snow of early afternoon. Night falls at the upper col of the Tour. Clouds in the distance, no signal, a little weather-related stress. In the end: just wind. Upon waking, the first mountaineers are already crossing the Trient Plateau below. The morning spectacle from a high-altitude bivouac.
And it is already time to head back down to the valley. Three days come to an end as quickly as they begin. Head to Poco Loco for a change from rösti.
The Trient Hut in practice
Perched at an altitude of 3,170 metres above the Trient Plateau, the Trient Hut is managed by the Diablerets section of the Swiss Alpine Club. Renovated in 2023, it is open from early June to around mid-September. It is an ideal base for exploring the peaks in the area: Aiguille du Tour, Aiguilles d'Orny, Aiguille Purtscheller, or for setting out on traverses to the Orny Hut or to the Albert 1er Hut on the French side.
Access from France
Train to Chamonix, bus to the village of Le Tour, the Grands Montets or Charamillon chairlift depending on the season, then hike via the Albert 1er Hut and across the Trient Plateau.
Access from Switzerland
From Champex-Lac via the La Breya chairlift and the Orny Hut, with a short equipped climbing section approaching the hut.
Equipment needed
Crampons, an ice axe and ropework equipment are essential for crossing the glacier, even in July. Soft snow at the end of the day can make the descent across the glacier more committing than expected.
For high-altitude outings, the LAGOPEYE CAT4 glasses are essential: above 3,000 metres, between the glare reflecting off the Trient Glacier Plateau and direct exposure on the ridge, category 4 lenses are not optional. And for high-mountain clothing, the Lagoped mountaineering collection brings together pieces made in Europe, PFAS-free, from 100% recycled materials.
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