PFAS - Status report on perennial pollutants in the textile industry
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Time to read 8 min
In recent months, PFAS or "forever pollutants" have been in the spotlight in France and Europe. This is because they are found in many of our everyday items, starting with waterproof clothing. Lagoped is partnering with Sympatex, a German alternative to waterproof membranes used in several Lagoped garments, to share key information about PFAS.
What are PFAS and what are the issues for human health and the environment?
PFAS* are synthetic chemical substances, grouped under the acronym per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances. Invented in the 1930s, they have been widely used in industrial and consumer products since the 1950s, notably in textiles, cookware, food packaging, cosmetics, medical devices, and electronics, due to their unique properties such as resistance to heat, water, and oils.
These substances, often called "forever pollutants," are extremely resistant to degradation, hence their name. Their resistance to degradation as well as their toxicity are the main concerns surrounding PFAS. Once in the environment, they can spread through water, soil, and groundwater, which can lead to exposure through drinking water, food, or dust. The steady increase in PFAS emissions worldwide, especially in highly developed countries, has led to a dangerous accumulation of these substances in living organisms and the environment. Prolonged exposure to certain PFAS can negatively impact human health, including:
An increased risk of certain cancers, such as kidney and testicular cancers.
Changes in cholesterol levels and liver enzymes.
Effects on the immune system and response to certain vaccines.
An increased risk of preeclampsia or high blood pressure during pregnancy.
Slight changes in babies' birth weight.
The harmful effects of PFAS on the environment include:
Accumulation in wildlife, leading to harmful effects on animal health.
Contamination of soil and water resources, making them unsuitable for use.
Disruption of ecosystems due to the persistent and bioaccumulative nature of these chemicals.
Challenges in waste management and remediation efforts due to their resistance to degradation.
As highlighted by the European Union’s Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability, consumers in Europe are currently widely exposed to chemicals found in countless everyday items, and initiatives to limit our exposure to these potentially harmful substances are more necessary than ever. According to experts, about 4.4 million tons of PFAS will contaminate our ecosystems over the next 30 years if no action is taken.
PFCs (per- and polyfluorinated chemicals) and PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) are terms often used interchangeably, although PFAS is the preferred term in science and legislation.
What are the latest regulatory developments in France and Europe?
PFAS regulation in Europe
PFAS and the main concerns about them have been on the agenda for a long time. In Europe, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) and the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) have been actively investigating these concerns for several years and are responsible for adjustments to European legislation. Some member states are also assessing and investigating the issue, which has led to an official proposal to ECHA.
In January 2023, the authorities of Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands, Norway, and Sweden submitted a legislative proposal to ECHA. After years of discussions, the proposal sets the path forward for the EU to ban more than 10,000 persistent chemicals. The goal is to significantly reduce PFAS emissions and protect humans and the environment from their harmful effects.
The restriction will have major impacts on the sports and outdoor industry, where membranes made from the PFAS polymer PTFE are often used. The ban applies to the entire lifecycle of PFAS, including production, use, and marketing, and requires that the substances be substituted in thousands of goods and ultimately completely removed from the market.
The restriction of PFAS will be introduced under the REACH regulation, a comprehensive set of rules in the EU considered the most advanced chemical legislation in the world since its adoption in 2006.
ECHA is expected to draft its opinion on the proposal by the second half of 2024, which is anticipated to be one of the most important events of the year in terms of EU legislation. The Agency's conclusions will then be used by the European Commission to formulate the final text, and the official document is expected to be published in 2025 (although it may be delayed due to the complexity of the file).
European companies should begin implementing restrictions from 2025 and should be ready to completely eliminate the use of PFAS in their products and processes by 2027-2028.
PFAS regulation in France
Just days after the national authorities of Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands, Norway, and Sweden submitted a proposal to the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) for an EU-wide restriction on the production and use of PFAS, officially launching the restriction development process, the French authorities (notably the Ministry of Ecological Transition and Territorial Cohesion) published the country's first action plan specifically focused on PFAS, recognizing the serious consequences of these "forever pollutants" on human health and the environment as well as the urgent need to reduce their production.
The "Ministerial Action Plan on PFAS" is based on 6 action areas:
Standards to guide public action;
Introduce a Europe-wide ban to eliminate risks associated with the use or marketing of PFAS;
Improve knowledge of emissions and environmental contamination to reduce public exposure;
Significantly reduce industrial emissions;
Ensure full transparency of available information;
Integrate actions on PFAS into the micropollutants plan.
Following this action plan, the National Assembly presented a legislative proposal on April 4, 2024, to protect the population from the risks of PFAS.
Who will be affected by the general PFAS ban and when will it apply?
The ban covers all PFAS, including fluoropolymers such as PTFE, and aims to be a complete ban with only a few exceptions. This means that products containing PFAS will no longer be manufactured or marketed and will affect imports from non-EU countries. This will apply 18 months after entry into force.
In the field of clothing and footwear, this will generally affect all applications, with individual exceptions for personal protective equipment (PPE). These applications will benefit from an additional transition period of 5 to 12 years, meaning the ban should apply from 2031 to 2038.
Currently, PFAS-free alternatives exist for most applications, but not all. Many players in the textile industry already find good substitutes for PFAS on the market, such as PES membranes, but some companies specializing in textiles for PPE, for example for professional firefighters, may take some time to find alternatives offering a satisfactory level of functionality. The flexible implementation approach gives them time to find these alternatives.
What are the solutions and alternatives to PFAS?
As a replacement for these extremely hazardous chemicals, often used in other membranes, the Sympatex membrane is made from polyetherester, a chain of polyester and polyether molecules. It is therefore environmentally friendly and gentle on the skin. The performance of fluorine-free polyester membranes and PTFE-based membranes is very similar in terms of windproofing, breathability, and waterproofness.
Additionally, Sympatex products are fully recyclable, just like a PET bottle. Not only is the membrane polyester-based, but the fabrics used to create the final product, the laminate, are also polyester-based. This mono-material concept allows us to easily return all laminates to the closed textile loop at the end of their life cycle, thereby reducing textile waste.
To ensure our environmentally friendly approach and compliance with the European chemical regulation (REACH), Sympatex conducts annual tests under the OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 label on membranes, tapes, laminates, and components from textile manufacturers to guarantee compliance with the latest REACH hazardous substances list.
Using a fluorocarbon-free and environmentally friendly DWR (durable water repellent) finish for textiles is a given. Since 2008, only fluorocarbon-free DWRs have been used for Sympatex products.
Sympatex is listed as an evaluated alternative to PFAS membranes on the Chemsec market, a platform that brings together all green chemistry innovations in one place, thus facilitating the choice of safer solutions for companies.
At a political level, Sympatex has been campaigning intensively for many years to ban PTFE and fluorine-based water-repellent coatings in the textile industry. Playing an active role in this process and protecting the environment and people from these substances is a matter very close to our hearts.
LEARN MORE about PFAS
to watch
"Dark Waters" is a drama film based on a true story, directed by Todd Haynes. It tells the fierce fight of lawyer Robert Bilott (played by Mark Ruffalo) against the multinational DuPont, accused of polluting the drinking water of Parkersburg, West Virginia, with toxic chemicals. Upon discovering the extent of the environmental and health damage caused by PFOA, a chemical used in the manufacture of Teflon, Bilott risks his career and personal life to reveal the truth and obtain justice for the victims. The film highlights the dangers of "forever chemicals" and the importance of corporate responsibility towards public health and the environment.
In her video, Camille Etienne, a French environmental activist, discusses the dangers of PFAS, these "forever pollutants" that are omnipresent in our daily lives. She explains how these chemical substances, used in various products such as waterproof clothing, food packaging, and kitchen utensils, persist in the environment and accumulate in our bodies, leading to serious health risks such as cancers, hormonal disruptions, and fertility problems. Camille Etienne calls for collective awareness and urgent action to ban these substances and promote safer alternatives, emphasizing the need to protect both our health and our planet.
to listen
The podcast "Forever Chemicals," created by the producers of "Outdoor Minimalist," is a ten-episode series aimed at answering crucial questions about PFAS. The episodes explore what PFAS are, why they are dangerous, and how the outdoor industry can move forward without using these persistent chemical substances. Through this series, listeners will discover the origin, rise, and now the gradual elimination of the "forever chemicals" PFAS. The podcast seeks to raise awareness about the importance of fighting PFAS pollution and encourage producers to prioritize the health of the planet and people.
La Terre au carré, a France Inter show hosted by Mathieu Vidard, dedicates an episode to PFAS, or "forever pollutants." Still little known to the public, PFAS are chemical substances found everywhere in the products we use and consume, responsible for invisible and nearly indestructible pollution. Guest on this episode: Stéphane HOREL, journalist at Le Monde, specializing in environment and health. Produced by Jérôme BOULET.
to read
The ChemSec report titled "The Top 12 PFAS Producers in the World and the Staggering Societal Costs of PFAS Pollution" highlights the main global producers of PFAS and the societal costs linked to pollution from these substances. It identifies twelve major companies responsible for producing PFAS, persistent chemicals harmful to the environment and human health. The report estimates the costs associated with PFAS pollution, including healthcare expenses, environmental impacts, and cleanup costs.
ChemSec is a non-governmental organization dedicated to promoting sustainable chemical innovation and reducing the use of hazardous substances in industry.
Stéphane Horel, journalist for the newspaper Le Monde, specializing in environment and health, conducted an investigation into the widespread contamination of Europe by PFAS and reveals the existence of thousands of contaminated sites.
An article written in collaboration with the company Sympatex.
Lagoped partners with Sympatex to ensure its clothing offers effective waterproofing that is environmentally friendly.