Winter mountaineering with Julien, high mountain guide

The winter of 2024-2025 offered excellent conditions for winter mountaineering, particularly in mixed terrain. Among those who took advantage of this, Julien Désécures, mountain guide and co-founder of Lagoped , explored new routes, redefining the outlook for climbers passionate about mixed terrain.

Winter conditions have changed considerably in recent years, directly impacting the practice of mountaineering . This season, several rain events (up to 2,500 meters) in the heart of winter have transformed the structure of the snow and ice, making ski touring and ice climbing more difficult. However, this upheaval has also opened the door to unexpected opportunities in mixed climbing.

Winter route opening relies on expert reading of the conditions. Julien takes a reactive approach, analyzing the impact of precipitation and frost on the walls.

This season, several massifs have proved particularly interesting, notably Chamrousse , where the humidity and frequent icing are reminiscent of Scottish conditions.

The routes opened this year offer a technical yet fun approach to winter mountaineering. Among them, Roche Rousse stands out for its beautiful lengths and aesthetic appeal.

While some routes have required the addition of bolts to secure exposed sections, the philosophy remains one of measured engagement. These new openings offer climbers an alternative to classic routes, which are sometimes too busy or affected by changing conditions.

Julien Désécures, a mountain guide since 2000, is a specialist in mixed terrain and major challenging climbs. A trained engineer, he shares his expertise as a former instructor at ENSA and EDLM . His track record includes notable first ascents on the northern faces of the Alps, such as Full Love at Peigne and Monomania at Grandes Jorasses.

He has completed prestigious routes with clients and as an amateur, notably on the Grandes Jorasses ( Linceul, Cassin, Slovène, Tronchey direct, W ridge ), on Mont-Blanc ( Brouillard intégrale ), as well as on isolated terrain in Scotland , Nepal , Bolivia and Patagonia . He is also the author of topos, including Grandes Jorasses North Face and Mont-Blanc Granite .

As co-founder of Lagoped , Julien is committed to a more responsible approach to mountaineering. His experience on the most demanding terrain has influenced the design of the brand's clothing, designed to withstand extreme conditions while respecting the environment.

The enthusiasm for these openings reflects a strong trend: in the face of climate change, mountaineers are turning to mixed climbing, which is more resilient than fragile ice.

Julien is already planning to explore new routes at higher altitudes, despite increased logistical constraints.

For those who want to get started on these demanding terrains, Julien's advice is simple:

✅ Start with existing routes

✅ Learn to read and anticipate weather conditions

✅ Work on your mixed protection technique

With these new openings, winter is establishing itself as a prime season for mountaineering enthusiasts. It's your turn!