Climbing in Morocco: a few weeks in Taghia

Nestled in the heart of the Moroccan Atlas Mountains, Taghia is a dream destination for climbers from around the world. Renowned for its spectacular multi-pitch routes on rare limestone, this Berber village attracts those seeking isolation, commitment, and vertical beauty every year. This is what prompted Florian, a mountain guide, to visit the area after hearing enthusiastic stories from climbing friends who had returned captivated by their stay there.

The idea wasn't a long-standing project, but rather an opportunity born during an off-season in the Alps. Initially, he planned to go there in the fall, a more favorable time for climbing training. Ultimately, spring proved to be perfect: less crowded, still wild, with that clear, bright light that accentuates the mineral beauty of the place.

Florian is familiar with big routes, which he loves for the commitment and concentration they demand. In Taghia, the anchor points are spaced out, and the climbing is technical, often on steep walls or thin slabs. But the high-mountain atmosphere, the unspoiled environment, and the impeccable rock make it a demanding yet deeply inspiring playground. Far from being completely isolated, the village is only a two-hour walk from the most remote rock faces, allowing for a constant connection with a form of civilization.

For this trip, he was accompanied by a friend, also a guide and member of the mountain rescue service. An experienced, complementary pair, ready to discover the wonders of the Atlas Mountains.

The journey begins in Marrakech, then continues by taxi to Zaouiat, the gateway to the valley. It's there, every Monday, that the souk comes to life, a veritable theater of exchange where you can find anything and everything, in a joyful tumult of colors and scents. Arriving at night, the market lights were out, but the echo of its bustle remained in the air.

The journey continues in a 4x4, on a recently opened track, gradually replacing the mules of yesteryear. As we enter the valley, silence descends. Upon arrival in Taghia, the cliffs, invisible in the night, nevertheless cast their monumental shadows against the starry sky. Only the distant cry of donkeys and the call to prayer of the mussem disturb the village's tranquility.

At dawn, the magic happens. High ochre walls encircle the earthen houses, and the contrast between the rock, the sky, and the greenery of the crops is striking. The atmosphere is unique, at once harsh and gentle, austere and welcoming.

In Taghia, the days begin early. Departure from the village is generally around 8 a.m., sometimes well before depending on the route. The approach walks vary from 15 minutes to an hour and a half, often punctuated by passages carved into the rock by the Berbers: hanging ledges, steep-sided corridors, and dizzying natural viaducts. Each of these adds to the atmosphere of adventure.

Over the course of two weeks, 13 major routes were hiked. One day was spent at the souk, and another resting after an unexpected snowfall. The afternoons, back at the lodge around 2 or 3 p.m., were spent napping, reading, chatting, or meeting in the village.

Among the notable routes, Les Rivières Pourpres (7b+ max) left a strong impression. Renowned and splendid, it features a technical and fluid climb leading to a demanding finale. Axe de Mal (7c max) also made an impression, with its 500 meters of continuous and steep wall. In contrast, Haden Oder Sein (6b+ max) offers a vertical journey through eroded orange limestone, spectacular, but abrasive for the fingers.

Some passages required particular inventiveness. On the Berber Style route, a slab traverse (6c) proved almost impossible at first: smooth, without grain, with distant points. Neither Florian nor his partner were able to free climb. An unexpected solution eventually prevailed: an improvised pendulum technique. Two days later, a guidebook found in another lodge showed a clock drawn next to this pitch, as a nod to their intuition.

Beyond the cliffs, Taghia is also a meeting place. The villagers have a deep sense of hospitality. Mint tea, shared discussions, and helping hands: the relationship between climbers and locals is based on simple and sincere hospitality.

One encounter in particular stood out during the stay: that of Armed, a man who lives alone a 40-minute walk from the village, in a house he built himself. He spends his days breaking rocks, surrounded by mountains. Passing witnesses, the climbers are a parenthesis for him, and he offers them tea as a silent gesture of friendship.

With the lodge's hosts, connections were formed naturally. Sharing tea, introducing the children to French, helping build a stone wall: these are all simple moments that take on a precious meaning when you step away from everyday life.

For this adventure, Florian had chosen equipment suited to temperature variations and the demands of multi-pitch climbing. The TETRAS jacket for rainy days, the NAGALAKA windbreaker for its ideal compactness at the bottom of the pack, and the CORUJA down jacket for belays and cool evenings. The HOODEECE fleece allowed climbing without the risk of damaging a down jacket, and the PHANTOM HOODIE served as an intermediate layer. The TEETREK T-shirts, breathable and quick-drying, completed the kit. Finally, the PTARMIGAN shorts proved perfect for afternoons at the lodge and the hottest days.

The gear fulfilled its role perfectly, especially during the colder second week. Lightweight, technical, and durable: essential criteria when you're going far away, with no margin for error. Being able to rely on your clothing gives you peace of mind that allows you to focus on what matters most: climbing, living, and discovering.

For a guide, these breaks away from the Alps have a special value. It's an opportunity to discover new adventure terrain, to test routes potentially accessible to future clients, and to better understand local logistics. But it's also a time for oneself, to climb at one's own pace, meet up with friends, and experience the mountains without guiding them.

Taghia, with its raw beauty and engaging community, will remain a landmark in Florian's travel journal. A place where rock, culture, and silence together create a rare form of balance.