If there are journeys that mark a person’s life, the Stevenson Trail will be one of those for me. At least one of my first unforgettable hikes. 

In April 2022, following the GR70 route, I traced the path of the famous Robert Louis Stevenson for three days. 

From September 22 to October 4, 1878, starting from Monastier sur Gazeille, the writer crossed Velay, Gévaudan, Mont Lozère, and the Cévennes to arrive at Saint Jean du Gard then Alès. During this excursion, his only travel companion was a donkey, Modestine. Along the way, many encounters, more or less friendly. 

Robert Louis Stevenson took notes of his journey and published them in 1879: Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes. 

While his descriptions and analyses of the land are firmly rooted in the 19th century, some observations and emotions related to travel remain relevant today. He, with his Modestine and his bundle, me, with my Salomon shoes on my feet, and my Lagoped jacket on my back, we undeniably shared some of the same sensations and visions. Encounters were also an integral part of my journey (however short it was): Sébastien from Le Puy-en-Velay, the grandmother from Coubon, Vlad from Monastier, the grandfather from Metz, Victoire from Bouchet, the grandmother from Landos, the grandfather from Pradelles… they are hosts, walkers, residents, strangers met during a literary pilgrimage, generous travel companions.

Departure: Le Puy-en-Velay

Arrival: Langogne (three days of walking), Alès (full route)

I boarded the train at Gare de Lyon at 12:50, marking the start of my adventure. My heart beats fast as I step onto the platform. As the landscapes change and become greener, wilder, a big smile spreads across my face. 

Arriving at the station, I barely have time to stride towards the Notre-Dame de France statue on its rock. I then view the city from above. 

Then I settle into the Gite La Prévôté where I recommend you reserve your bed. Sébastien welcomes me warmly. For dinner, I will sit at Restaurant Aline et H, at the bottom of the cathedral steps, the starting point for pilgrims, and taste the famous lentils from Le Puy.  

I have time to enjoy a short walk in the old town, between the cobblestones and winding streets, to enjoy the sunset before treating myself to a good night's sleep. 

Transport: TGV Paris Gare de Lyon -> Saint-Etienne Châteauroux (3h), TER Saint-Etienne Châteaucreux -> Le Puy-en-Velay (1h20)

To visit: Notre-Dame-du-Puy Cathedral, Notre-Dame de France Statue

Dinner: Restaurant Aline et H

Accommodation: Gite La Prévôté

The adventure begins this morning; I wake up to the sound of the cathedral bells. I open the window of my room overlooking a garden and the Notre-Dame de France statue. The weather is nice and cool, a beautiful day is ahead! 

Before venturing onto the path, I take time to visit the Saint Michel d’Aiguilhe rock I saw the day before. On the trail, I am almost alone. The pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago were earlier risers. 

In Coubon, I take a lunch break. On the menu: sausage and La Stevenson beer, to celebrate the feeling of fullness and happiness that has been with me for several hours now. 

I carefully follow the trail, letting myself be carried by the music of the birds, the wind in the trees, and the distant farmers. 

Arriving at Monastier, I settle into the inn of the old gendarmerie. I enjoy the sunset near the church and before closing my eyes, I do some research on Fanny Van de Grift, the one who makes my travel companion Robert Louis's heart beat. 

Distance: 23km

Elevation gain: +739m

Duration: 5h

GPX track

To visit: Saint Michel d’Aiguilhe Rock

Accommodation: Former gendarmerie - Gîte Les Gens Dorment

I leave Monastier early in the morning, full of energy. Waking up on the trail is nothing like waking up in everyday Parisian life; it’s not surprising but so satisfying. Passing through Goudet, I hesitate to make a detour to the castle. The day is still long, so I decide to continue on my way. I finally meet several hikers on my route, couples, groups of friends. We exchange greetings, smiles, and a few comments about our adventures. 

Arriving at Le Bouchet is overwhelming: I am completely charmed by the tranquility of the village, located high up, and by the comfort of the accommodation I booked for the night. Victoire welcomes me like a friend, and I imagine staying a few days, or even weeks, in this house. 

Distance: 24km

Elevation gain: +655m

Duration: 5h15

GPX track

Before sunset, I decide to extend the day by walking to the lake, and it’s worth the detour. The colors of the lake’s shores make me travel to Canada, where I have never been but whose photos greatly entice me. I take advantage of the Chalet by the lake to treat myself to a small aperitif and simply enjoy the moment and the luck I have to be there. 

Distance: 6.5km

Elevation gain: +150m

Duration: 1h30

GPX track

To see: Goudet Castle, Le Bouchet Lake, Chalet of Le Bouchet Lake

Accommodation: Le Flambeau

In the early morning, a feeling of nostalgia overwhelms me. I leave Le Bouchet for my last hike, wishing this adventure would last longer, wishing I could follow the path all the way to Alès. Before resuming the trail, I greet the Stevenson statue and send my postcards. 

This is the longest distance of my route: I meet people and chat with women older than me whom I met the day before on the trail. I also cross paths with a herd of cows and a bull. I blend into the bushes under his insistent gaze to the great amusement of the farmer. 

In Pradelles, I stroll through the alleys before finding the place for my lunch break. As I finish Robert Louis Stevenson’s book, my gaze meets that of an old man who approaches me. He is passionate about the history of his region to the point of reading the archives during his lockdown two years ago. He is fascinating. I let myself be carried away by his stories and anecdotes. Time flies, and I have to say goodbye to this rich encounter but make sure to note his Facebook contact: “Tourism in the land of Pradelles.” 

After Pradelles, I quickly arrive in Langogne. The nostalgia felt early in the morning deepens. I have to spend the night in this town, which doesn’t have as much charm as my previous stops. I then decide to speed up my schedule to return to Paris. 

Distance: 28km

Elevation gain: +491m

Duration: 6h

GPX track

To see: The Stevenson Statue, Pradelles

This is the end of my first adventure on the Stevenson Trail. The end of my walking and spiritual journey. I return with a heart full but torn at the thought of leaving the trail and my travel companions. I don’t know when I will take up the trail again; I have finished Stevenson's travel account, but my journey is only just beginning. 

I will remember the tranquility and beauty of the landscapes and the soul of each village crossed. I will recall the spontaneity and generosity of every person I met, never indifferent to your passage and your story. I will always recognize the privilege of being able to walk and travel alone. Finally, I will keep in mind the warm solitude that accompanied me on the trail. 

For more information about the Stevenson Trail: https://www.chemin-stevenson.org/decouvrez-le-chemin-de-stevenson-gr70/