When mountaineering rhymes with tenacity: the ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m) by Tiphaine Dupérier

After 17 days spent at the base camp on the Rupal side of Nanga Parbat , the rope team composed of Tiphaine Dupérier and Boris Langenstein achieved a historic first: the ski descent of this legendary, never-before-skied side, after an ascent shared with David Goettler. Having set off on June 21 at 1:30 a.m., the trio reached the summit of the Himalayan at 8,125 meters on June 24 at 3:30 p.m. That day marked a decisive shift: that between the sides, between the ascent and the commitment to the descent. The skis were put on at the summit, for a three-day descent to the base camp. All this, in alpine style: without oxygen, without fixed ropes, without porters. A seven-year dream finally came true for Tiphaine Dupérier and Boris Langenstein.

Although the exceptionally low snowfall and the high temperatures prevented a complete descent—the last 2,500 meters were marked by rockfalls, down-climbing sections, and poor-quality snow—the upper part of the route, from 8,125 to 6,000 meters, offered stable, skiable conditions. This enabled the roped party to make a new mark in the history of mountaineering and steep skiing on the slopes of the "Pakistani monster."

Story of the expedition with Tiphaine Dupérier, member of the Lagoped Family.

On June 21, 2025 , Tiphaine Dupérier once again set off toward a summit that has been close to her heart since 2019. For several years, this project has stuck with her, followed her, waited for her. A first unsuccessful attempt, a second aborted one… and finally, this third one which, this time, will succeed. “When it works, it’s great.”

Because the success of a large-scale project in the high mountains is never just a matter of luck. It is the culmination of a long process , a lot of patience, perseverance, and meticulous preparation. This success also marks a turning of the page for Tiphaine.

This isn't Tiphaine Dupérier 's first summit. But she's been looking forward to this expedition for a long time. In 2019, she attempted the ascent from a different side. Then, in 2024, she tried again. Without success. In 2025, with two climbing companions— David , an 8,000m expert, and Boris , a longtime partner—she gave it another try.

It all begins with a strategy: June 24th is predicted to be a perfect weather window, with no wind. So, on the 21st, it's time to set off. The goal: to climb gradually each day, camp by camp, to reach the summit at just the right time. It's weather and logistical anticipation that sets the pace for the climb.

On June 21 , we left base camp at 1:30 a.m. We had to avoid the sun on the south face , where rockfalls are common. 2,500 m of elevation gain in one go. We arrived at camp 1 at 6,000 m . The altitude was already serious, and the effects were beginning to be felt. The heat of the day prevented us from resting. We had to be cunning: makeshift parasols with sleeping bags, blankets on the tent... and drink, always.

On June 22 , we climbed to Camp 2 at 6,800 m , on a long, monotonous snow slope. Mentally difficult, physically demanding, because we had to make tracks , without assistance, without a Sherpa. But this time, the mountain was less snowy than in 2024. It was better. Our motivation was intact.

June 23rd is serious business. From 6800m to 7300m , the slope steepens, the terrain becomes technical. There's no one there. No fixed ropes, no obvious route. You have to read the mountain, and draw on your reserves . The altitude eats away at your appetite and energy, but a good night at Camp 3 gives you some strength for what awaits the next day: the summit.

There are no tears, but a big smile, euphoria, and deep relief . This is David's 5th attempt , Boris his 2nd ascent , and this time, Tiphaine is at the summit with him . A beautiful loop completed.

David prepares for his paragliding descent and begins on foot. Tiphaine and Boris put on their skis. It's not over yet. At 7,600 m, they find David and help him inflate his wing . He takes off, "like a bomb," and makes a magical descent into the golden light of the sunset.

It's late. Night is falling. Fortunately, they've planned ahead. A tent, an inflatable mattress, a stove. An impromptu night on the west face , in peace and quiet, to regain their strength before continuing.

The next day, waking up is tough. Another technical traverse. Then the ski descent , described as a "combat." The explosiveness required by skiing doesn't mix well with the altitude. Every three turns, a break. Out of breath, legs on fire. But making turns on the snowy summit ridge is magical. It's rare. And Tiphaine Dupérier will remember that for a long time.

This project isn't just a performance. It's a story of teamwork , trust , and mutual respect . Tiphaine and Boris have shared 10 years of expeditions. Their bond no longer needs words. Each knows how the other works, anticipates, and supports.

With David, whom she knows less well but admires for his 20 years of experience, Tiphaine discovers another form of confidence: that inspired by the mastery and serenity of an expert . Together, they form a balanced, efficient team.