Hiking diary: a weekend in the Vosges

Hiking alone, with family, as a couple, or with friends: every mountain outing is unique and precious. This time, a group of friends formed on Facebook to enjoy the Pentecost weekend by embarking on a hiking trip. Destination: the Vosges.

The hiking group met at Gare de l'Est in Paris: 11 young professionals aged 25 to 30 ready to discover the Vosges forests over a weekend. 

We all converged on Strasbourg to start our journey. From Paris, the trip is quick: 1h45 by train, with a departure at 7:16 am on Saturday morning. Once in Strasbourg, we took the TER towards Saverne, leaving at 9:23. Excitement grew as we approached the starting point of our hike.

We arrived in Saverne mid-morning, just in time to enjoy the market. It was the perfect opportunity to stock up on local and fresh products before leaving the urban area to head into the forest for the start of the hike.

Leaving the city to enter the forest was a magical moment. We quickly climbed to reach the heights, following a trail marked by the Club Vosgien, whose distinctive marks differ from the classic GR with their own color codes and signs.

Indeed, the Club Vosgien was created in 1872 under the initiative of Richard Stieve, a German magistrate. The tourist society was founded under its German name Vogesenclub. To celebrate its 25th anniversary in 1897, a route crossing the Vosges massif was created and marked with a red rectangle. This is the marking still found today along the hiking trail.

In 1946, the 430 km connecting Wissembourg to Fesches-le-Chatel in the Belfort Territory was finally labeled GR5. 

The forest gradually revealed magnificent views of the valley. Along the hiking trail, we were lucky to learn more about the rich and varied flora through signs and panels. A total immersion in nature.

Our first major stop was the Château du Haut-Barr, an impressive 12th-century construction offering an exceptional panorama of the Northern Vosges, the Middle Vosges, and the Rhine plain. We naturally climbed to its heights, amazed by the views this hike offers.

As we progressed, the group of 11 people got to know each other. Introductions were lively: our professions, hiking levels, and connections with one another. No chance to get bored on the trail!

We reached the Tour du Brotsch (542m), a structure erected in 1897, marking an ancient protohistoric site. An ideal stop for the first refreshment of the hike. 

The next point of interest is the Rocher du Geissfels. From there, the view of the valley and the Dabo rock was striking. The group took the opportunity to take some souvenir photos of the hike. 

Later, we had lunch behind the Rocher du Hibou, a large rock rising in the forest, a well-deserved moment of conviviality and rest.

The hike continued at the group's pace: through forests, viewpoints over the valley, stopover town, and private gardens. 

After the Col du Valsberg (652m), one of the highest points of the hiking day, we finally reached Wangenbourg-Engenthal, a charming spa town.

Just before the storm, we hurried to set up our camp at Camping Les Huttes. Myriam welcomed us warmly. The campsite is very well equipped: toilets, shower, water, a friendly space, and well located. A 15-minute walk from the village center.

While the downpour was heavy, Myriam kindly offered to drive us to the Auberge du Château. We enjoyed a delicious dinner featuring regional specialties such as kneffes (gnocchis from the Vosges, made from flour, egg, and milk)

On Sunday morning, we left the campsite late. With lighter backpacks, we chose an easier route, avoiding mountain passes so that everyone could enjoy the hike without too much difficulty.

The alternative for this hiking day would have been to go over the summit of Schneeberg (961m). 

We reached the Château du Nideck for lunch. A kind German hiker showed us the stairs to enjoy the view. The simple semolina and side dishes menu was enhanced by the beauty of the landscape. The weather was worsening, but we were able to eat peacefully.

After lunch, I had to leave the group to reach Urmatt station. The path went by Nideck waterfall, a popular site. The rain intensified, but my waterproof hiking jacket kept me dry.

The trails were muddy, and hiking alone after so much camaraderie gave a strange but calming feeling. Spotting a doe, I slowed down and took the time to observe every corner of the forest. I felt myself being watched. 

Arriving at Urmatt station to catch the 5:23 PM train, I just had time to visit Strasbourg and have dinner before taking the return train to Paris.

This route can be extended on the long-distance hiking trail 53 (GR 53), crossing the northern Vosges Massif. At 167 km long, it offers a full immersion in this magnificent region. It starts from Wissembourg and ends in Schirmeck. Its marking is the red rectangle mentioned in this article. Part of this long hike crosses the Northern Vosges Regional Nature Park.

Distance: 164km

Total ascent elevation gain: 5927m

For those who wish to explore it, detailed IGN maps are available to plan your hike: 

• Wissembourg Lauterbourg Soufflenheim Rhine Plain (3914OT).
• Haguenau Wissembourg Outre-Forêt Northern Vosges Regional Nature Park (3814ET).
• Bitche Country Northern Vosges Regional Nature Park (3713ET). 
• La Petite Pierre Niederbronn-les-Bains Northern Vosges Regional Nature Park (3714ET). 
• Saverne Sarrebourg Dabo Rock (3715OT). 
• Mont Ste-Odile Molsheim Obernai Bruche Valley (3716ET). 
• Le Donon Lake of Pierre-Percée (3616OT).

May is an ideal time to explore the Vosges, with lush landscapes and nature in full bloom. However, the weather can be unpredictable during a hike. In May, temperatures generally range between 10°C and 20°C during the day but can drop quickly, especially at higher altitudes. Mornings and evenings are often cool, and showers are not uncommon. It is crucial to be well prepared to face these changing conditions.

We hope this hiking story will inspire you to discover the wonders of the Vosges. Whether for a weekend or longer, adventure and nature await you!