The Brice Heist, by Xavier Cailhol & Symon Welfringer

This is the story of a funny idea that germinates during an improbable season. A thing that starts with glaciology, continues with a steep gully, and ends with steep skiing on a route that didn't exist not yet. The kind of opening that mixes improvisation (this term so dear to Yann Borgnet), commitment, and a good dose of humor so as not to take oneself too seriously. Come on, we'll tell you.

Two weeks ago, I went up to the Grande Casse for glaciological surveys in the Grands Couloirs and the north face, as part of my doctorate. A studious program, except that instead of being satisfied with a simple climb, I decided to go through Folie Douce with my brother. This gully, which had not been climbed for a while, is finally in condition.

On the way down, I take my readings, and then I spot a line that I had already noticed in the spring. At the time, it was mainly composed of a dihedral filled with stones. But this… it’s something else. The start, really steep, is now white with cold snow. And the idea begins to germinate: What if we went there in descent mode with skis?

A few days later, Symon and I are discussing our plans for the week. The initial idea was to go mixed at the Grandes Jorasses. But the conditions there aren’t ideal. So I say to him: “Symon, what if we go ski this line?”
Steep skiing, north face, in October, with the first turns of the season in 50°? No need to tell him more. We pack our bags, and off we go again, heading for the Grande Casse. Second climb of the week, but this time with skis.

The climb through the Grands Couloirs is quickly swallowed up. We emerge at the summit, our noses leaning towards the north face. I call out to the S: — Wow, it's steep.
Oh yes, it's steep. And above all, it's very white. The snow has stayed cold, grips well, and for the moment, everything looks perfect. We start by descending a few meters in almost vertical slabs placed under 40 cm of snow. Symon places a good cable, a friend as a back-up. I descend a first rappel of 30 m, and find a perfect crack for a belay. Second rappel, this time very vertical, and we finally arrive in a skiable corridor. We put on our skis.

First turn: not easy. Second: still not. The slope is at a good 50° (still according to the demonstrators, the steep slope police would announce a 47.85°), the corridor is narrow, and every gesture counts. A few meters further down, the corridor narrows again. This time, no choice: we take off our skis, descend five meters, then put our skis back on. What's next? A nice steep slope, a few fluid turns... until a new spur of ice and stones that forces us to put our skis back on. Another 30 abseil and there: happiness, a nice straight slope of 600 m at more than 45°, with 30 cm of cold powder. We chain the turns, a smile stuck on our face, and we arrive at the bottom of the face euphoric and happy. The season is starting WELL!