Label glossary: what they really mean

OEKO-TEX 100, GRS, RCS, GOTS, … All these letters combined may seem to form an incomprehensible alphabet. And yet, they are there to help us make informed choices. But you still need to know how to read them.

We take you into the world of textile labels and certifications to decipher their meaning, understand their limits, and give you a reading grid to decipher for yourself what is behind the products you buy.

This first group of labels is interested in the origin of the fibers. Are they organic? Recycled? Traceable?
These certifications answer the question: what is this garment made of?

You've probably heard of it. GOTS is the global reference for organic textiles. It guarantees that a garment contains at least 70% natural fibers (cotton, linen, wool, etc.) and that the entire production chain is certified: controlled dyes, rigorous water management, and decent working conditions.

Important nuance: GOTS applies exclusively to natural fibers. It is not applicable to synthetic or recycled materials. At Lagoped, we mainly work with recycled materials such as rPET. GOTS is therefore not the label that applies to our products.

Both the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) and the RCS (Recycled Claim Standard) certify that the material used comes from recycled resources.

The two labels differ in their level of requirement. GRS is the most rigorous, certifying end-to-end traceability and requiring a garment to contain at least 20% recycled material. RCS, on the other hand, focuses only on recycled content and requires a minimum of 5%.

What they do not guarantee: clean production conditions or respected workers' rights. An rPET jacket could very well come from a polluting factory. Recycled material is an important first step but it doesn't guarantee everything.

Here we are interested not in the material, but in the manufacturing processes. This takes into account the chemicals used, water and energy consumption, and working conditions in factories.

OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is one of the most common labels in textiles. It guarantees that the finished product contains no harmful substances for health. This means: no heavy metals, no allergenic dyes, no phthalates. It is a direct guarantee of safety for the wearer of the garment.

What it does not guarantee: ecological production, the use of organic materials, decent working conditions or the treatment of wastewater. A fast-fashion polyester t-shirt can very well be OEKO-TEX certified. The label says the garment won't harm you, not that it was made responsibly.

Bluesign is the reference label for technical and outdoor clothing. Specifically designed for textiles with intensive dyeing and treatments, it goes where GOTS cannot.

It guarantees very strict management of chemical products throughout production, excluding any toxic or carcinogenic substances. It also certifies optimized efficiency of water and energy resources, as well as responsible treatment of industrial waste. In addition, it covers processes and factories themselves, ensuring compliance with ILO (International Labor Organization) conventions.

For materials like recycled polyester, ubiquitous in technical clothing, Bluesign is more relevant than GOTS. That's why it plays a central role in our approach at Lagoped.

Each label analyzes a very specific aspect of a garment's life: the wearer's health, the origin of the material, the traceability of recycled materials, manufacturing processes, social conditions... But none covers everything on its own.

Beware of brands that highlight a label to make you believe it encompasses health, ethical, environmental, and social aspects. This is almost never the case. A single label does not make a responsible brand. It is the combination of labels, and the transparency with which a brand explains them, that makes the difference.

At Lagoped, the fabrics and membranes from our suppliers are GRS and/or Bluesign certified, and our products meet OEKO-TEX Standard 100 norms. By sourcing our materials and assembling our garments in Europe, we do our best to limit abuses and ensure decent working conditions throughout the chain. Every day, we choose to combine complementary labels because we want to offer the fairest product for the planet, for the consumer, and for the people who made it.

You now know how to read between the lines to consume responsibly.